Bordeaux, an industrial city in south-western France, is the centre of the world's most famous wine region. Red Bordeaux is a bench-mark wine throughout the world, and the origin of the intense, blackcurranty style of red. The best wines show a wonderful complexity of flavours and aromas, great elegance and refinement and an ability to age gracefully - some for a hundred years.
The vineyards of the Médoc and Graves lie on the west bank of the river Gironde, and are based on gravelly soil. They are mainly planted with Cabernet Sauvignon vines. Pomerol and St-Emilion lie on the east bank; two smaller areas of predominantly clay soil, planted with a higher proportion of Merlot.
The wines from each area can have quite a different character because of the predominant grape variety and different soils. It is often the case that one of the areas is more successful than the other in any given year.
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Location
Situated
on the Atlantic coast in the South-West of France.
Grapes
- Red:
Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Cabernet Franc, Petit Verdot and
Malbec.
- White: Semillon and Sauvignon Blanc.
Look Out For
- Cabernet-dominated communes such
as: Listrac, Margaux, Moulis, Pauillac, St-Estephe, St-Julien
(all from the Medoc); Graves
and Pessac-Leognan.
- Merlot-dominated communes such as Pomerol
and St-Emilion.
- Sweet dessert wines from Sauternes.
- Light, simple whites from
Entre-Deux-Mers.
- Fine dry whites from Graves.
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There are several types of wine produced in Bordeaux:
1. Medium-Bodied Red Wines
These can be blends of Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Cabernet Franc and Petit Verdot. Some sub-regions produce wine made primarily from Cabernet Sauvignon (see info box), whereas the Merlot grape is dominant in other areas.
At their best, red Bordeaux can impart a complex blend of blackcurrants and plums, cedarwood and cigar boxes, with violets, and perhaps even roast coffee beans. They come especially from the Cabernet Sauvignon grape, which is always blended here, usually with both Merlot and Cabernet Franc. Cabernet Sauvignon-based wines have more tannin and a more austere flavour than the Merlot-based wines, especially when young. Wines with a lot of Merlot in the blend taste softer and more generously fruity. All good red Bordeaux needs to age for a few years, but some vintages will mature faster than others.
The Médoc is home to most of the great, classic Clarets. Any wine labelled AC Médoc is usually one step above basic Bordeaux, but the very best Médoc wines come from even more tightly defined ACs (Appellation Contrôlée). The best of these include:
- St-Julien: the epitome of Claret - well-balanced, savoury and refined.
- St-Estèphe: tannic, structured, and long-lasting - often described as "masculine" wines.
- Pauillac: classic, elegant yet powerful wines.
- Margaux: elegant and perfumed - often described as "feminine" wines.
You will find on the market a great number of chateaux-bottled Bordeaux wines. The highest ranking, premier cru (first growth) of the Medoc includes only five chateaux:
- Chateau Haut-Brion (actually in Graves),
- Chateau Margaux,
- Chateau Lafite,
- Chateau Mouton-Rothschild and
- Chateau Latour.
The classified growths of Medoc are ranked first growth, second, third, fourth and fifth. Pricewise, all classed growth wines is out of reach of most of us, except for the most special occasions. These top red Bordeaux command very high prices, and sadly many of these, particularly the Premiers Crus, are bought by investors, and consequently, they may never even be drunk.
Just below these classed growth are a host of wines known as the 'Crus Bourgeois'. Many fine wines can be found within this classification - some are worthy of classed growth status, yet are available at a fraction of the price. The outlying regions of Bordeaux, known as the 'satellite communes', are often good sources of well-made, reasonably priced wines. These are made in a similar style to those in the major communes, but are often simpler, fruitier and cheaper. Look out for names like Cotes de Castillon, Cotes de Bourg, Cotes de Blaye and Lalande-de-Pomerol.
2. Dry White Wines
The very best dry white Bordeaux comes from Pessac-Leognan and Graves. Like the Médoc, this region was also classified, band appoximately 12 châteaux are entitled to the words 'Grand Cru' on their label. The most famous of these is Château Haut-Brion, which was also declared a Premier Cru of the Mvdoc, due to its exceptional quality. Uniquely, it is allowed to have both classifications on its label: Médoc Premier Cru and Graves Grand Cru.
Simpler wines come from Entre-Deux-Mers or may just be labelled Bordeaux Blanc.
Basic white Bordeaux has a fresh and clean taste, and attractive grassy fruit. These wines are simple, less pungent versions of the green, tangy style typified by New Zealand Sauvignon Blanc. The same grape variety grows here, too, and is sometimes blended with Semillon. At the top end of the scale, creamy, nectariny dry whites from Pessac-Leognan can be some of the best in France.
The simplest whites are less susceptible to vintage variation, and in any case should be drunk young. With top whites, take care with the vintage, and give them some age.
3. Sweet Dessert Wines
These are blends of Sauvignon Blanc, Semillon and Muscadelle afflicted with Botrytis cinerea (Noble Rot) - a grape mould that concentrates the natural sugars. The most famous golden, sweet whites are those of Sauternes and its neighbour, Barsac, including the almost legendary Château d'Yquem. There are various lesser regions that produce lighter versions of this style, including Loupiac, Cerons and Ste-Croix-du-Mont.
The vintage will make a great deal of difference with Sauternes because the noble rot fungus, which gives the wines their sweetness and character, can't be relied upon to show up every year.
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The name 'Claret' is derived from the French
word 'Clairet' used to distinguish the light style red Bordeaux
wines from the more robust reds of Portugal and Spain. The name
Claret is still widely used today and applies to all red Bordeaux
wines, while Clairet now refers to the rosé style wines
of the region.
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