Muscat

Muscat is an ancient grape variety and probably one of the first to be identified and cultivated. Nearly every Mediterranean country has a famous wine based on Muscat, varying from light and bone dry, to low-alcohol sparkling versions, to very sweet and alcoholic forms. Muscat is the only grape to make delicious wine that actually smells of the grape itself. Muscat of Alexandria and Muscat Hamburg are, in fact, cultivated as table grapes, as well as for making wine.

The darkest and sweetest version, Rutherglen in north-eastern Victoria, Australia, was once known as Liqueur Muscat - a strong, sweet wine with a raisiny, perfumed flavour. Next down the scale are the golden, sweet Muscats, again fortified, from the South of France (Beaumes-de-Venise, Frontignan, Rivesaltes and other villages) with light, delicate orange-and-grape aromas with a touch of rose petals.

There's also dry Muscat, from Alsace, and occasionally Australia and Portugal. Finally, from Italy, there's the deliciously grapey Asti: frothy, sweet and sparkling.