Semillon comes into its own in two key areas, Bordeaux and Australia, and it comes in two totally different styles: dry and sweet. Either way, it can produce wonderful quality.
Its signature characteristics are low acidity and thick body, and its aromas and flavours of figs, honey and lemon are restrained. Semillon is sometimes aged in oak, but even if unoaked, it develops a wonderfully nutty flavour, particularly if allowed to age for several years. The best dry, oaked Semillon wines have flavours of nectarine and lemon.
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Flavours and Bouquet:
Citrus, honey, lime and sweet marmalade.
Main Growing Regions:
Bordeaux, Australia and California. |
Dry Wines
In Bordeaux Semillon is usually blended with Sauvignon Blanc - its silky richness complements the acidity of the Sauvignon Blanc. The best dry versions, oaked wines with flavours of cream and nectarines, come from Graves and Pessac-Leognan. They improve for several years in bottle.
Australia produces some very successful dry wines, but Hunter Valley Semillon is the most famous. The traditional style here is unoaked. When young, unoaked Hunter Semillon tastes neutral and light, with just a bit of lemony fruit. However, unoaked Hunter Semillon should not be drunk young. It needs up to a decade in bottle - when it will show a wonderful profile of waxy, lanoliny, custardy fruit.
Oaked Australian Semillon is different. Dry, toasty, waxy and lemony, it's good young but the best can age for a few years, too. Most Australian Semillon is oaked, and some is blended with Chardonnay.
Sweet Wines
Semillion's thin skin makes it very susceptible to noble rot which is prerequisite for the making of dessert wines, such as Sauternes. This Bordeaux appellation produces extraordinarily concentrated wines from grapes affected by botrytis, with flavours of barley sugar and peaches. These wines hold up spectacularly in antiquity, unique in unfortified wines. They usually also have Sauvignon Blanc mixed in to give them a little acidity. Semillon grapes make up 80% of the blend in the most expensive and famous dessert wine in the world, Château d'Yquem.
This golden, sweet style is imitated, in small quantities, in California, Australia and New Zealand. The method of production means it can never be cheap; but nor is it overpriced.
Semillon and Food
Try pairing Semillon with recipes using dried fruit. It is also excellent with fish, risotto, pilaf, and other grain dishes.
Trying it Out
For around £5 to £10 try:
- Elderton Golden Semillon (Australian Dessert Wine)
- Amberley Estate Semillon (Australia)
- Benjamin de Vieux Château Gaubert (Bordeaux)
- Alta Tierra Sauvignon/Semillon (Chile)
For around £10 to £20 try:
- De Bortoli Noble One, Botrytis Semillon (Australian Dessert Wine)
If you've won the lottery:
- Sauternes Chateau Y'Quem (France). From around £100 a bottle for a 2004, up to a whopping £11,000 for an 1861 vintage.